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Click here for the indispensable
traveller's guide to Canada's Arctic.

Nunavut, Canada's true Arctic, is by definition a desert.

Some 2,000,000 square kilometres of land and sea will be frozen and white for at least half of the year and will explode in colour and life under 24 hours of sunlight in the short summer.

The winter although dark and cold is for sky watchers with millions of stars and northern lights so close you feel you can reach out and touch them. The temperature may drop to -40°C (Celsius or Fahrenheit, it doesn't matter as the thermometers meet here) plus wind-chill and whiteouts, but it may be -15°C or 0°C with no wind and bright sunshine with the snow crunching under your cross-country skis.

In the summer where mosquitoes compete with dust to irritate you, the fireweed, arctic heather and rhododendrons will keep your camera clicking.

The musk-ox, caribou and floe edge sea life will be sure to require extra trips to the store for more film.

The bug jacket over your T-shirt will be as important as the light down jacket and boots for the possible snow flurry. Always changing, always unexpected, the Arctic can be both a challenge and the fulfilment of a dream.

For more info:

on Canada's arctic desert, see

on the Northern Lights / Aurora Borealis, visit

on Permafrost, see


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